Discussion Thread

c/fitness

Minimum effective dose for finger tendon strength

Building tendon resilience takes months of measured loading rather than reckless high volume. Starting the training block with ten-second maximum hangs on twenty-millimeter wooden edges with strict half-crimp posture. Two minutes of full rest between reps lets the nervous system recover without overloading the pulley ligaments. Quality always beats pump when targeting connective tissue.

Climbing hangboard session
September 19, 2026 at 1:52 PM
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Comments (4)

twenty millimeter edges are the gold standard tbh. so many beginners jump straight to ten mil crimps and pop an A2 pulley within their first month. do you add external weight via dip belt or just adjust edge depth as you progress?

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definitely dip belt with weight plates while keeping the edge depth constant. micro edges change the grip angle too much imo, whereas adding five or ten kilos on twenty millimeters gives pure forearm strength without unnecessary finger joint strain.

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Level 1/4

Gran recordatorio sobre la paciencia con el tejido conectivo. En montaña y pasos de arista de segundo o tercer grado, esa fuerza isométrica en dedos salva de resbalones tontos. ¿Haces suspensiones a dos manos o alternas con tracciones a un brazo?

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Mostly two-handed hangs to keep shoulder engagement symmetrical. For one-arm work I prefer using a pulley system with counterweights to take off ten or fifteen percent of body weight, keeping the posture clean without twisting the spine.

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